Saturday, December 13, 2008

Blessed, damned rain

Hoi'an, Vietnam ©Ingrid Booz Morejohn

A Chinese poet, seated by a latticed garden window, might reflect upon the hypnotic quality the sound of raindrops makes upon the surface of a banana leaf, rhythmically transporting him to other worlds. In Laos Buddha statues have been created standing with their arms in a special position named "Calling for Rain". The Buddha's hands are held straight down, tightly pressed flat against his body with fingertips pointing to the ground, beseeching rain to come and help the people grow their food and survive another year. Thus the farmer considers rain a blessed thing, longed for and cherished. But too much of it can also be a curse - when it drowns fields and rots crops like the flooding that caused many problems in northern Vietnam this autumn. The tourist, on the other hand, seldom looks upon rain as anything but a bother. Something they definitely hadn't paid for when they booked their ticket (usually from very rainy countries) and an irritating annoyance put between them and unending leisurely hours in the sun - a precious luxury the tourist has come to expect and demand as his right when arriving at his (as portrayed in the travel catalogue) sunny destination. But where does the water come from that let's you take that wonderful freshwater shower in your hotel room?

Picture: The last days of the seasonal monsoon. November, Hoi'an, Vietnam. 

Monday, December 8, 2008

Thanksgiving dinner in Laos

Luang Prabang morning market ©Ingrid Booz Morejohn

Instead of roast turkey, sage stuffing, corn on the cob and pumpkin pie the local offerings this November for a home-cooked Thanksgiving dinner at the morning market in Luang Prabang, Laos were bat, bamboo rat, mouse deer, grasshopper (crunchy but a slightly unpleasant undertone of tobacco juice), flying squirrel, wasp larvae, exotic birds and Mekong catfish. Not that I pooh-pooh local delicacies that for some are the very height of gourmet dining but on a special day you just kind of want to eat the traditional food that your mum served you as a child. For some Laotian I suppose that is a juicy bamboo rat but I just couldn't quite conjure up an image of turkey feathers on the fat rat so I gave it a skip. No warbled thank-you was to be had from the rat who only hissed at me through very unattractive front chompers. (Bamboo rats look like grossly fat rodents without the long tails but with hideous rabbit-like buckteeth). What sealed my vegetarian fate that day was a little bat who stared forlornly at me from a large platter of his fellow mammals, all trussed up by their feet. He, unlike them, had not yet succumbed to his fate, his liquid black eyes unblinking. I heard later that a special northern Laotian treat is bat stuffed in bamboo tubes then left for several days to ferment....

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Vietnam FILM SUGGESTIONS

©Ingrid Booz Morejohn

When I lead a tour I often recommend movies that can be watched either before the tour or after as a way of deepening the travel experience and aiding in understanding a little more about the country, it's people and it's culture. It is also a way of extending the journey when you've returned home - the movie recapturing a mood, atmosphere or even a smell or taste sensation. 

The list below is by no means complete and I have not seen every movie so can't fully vouch for either the quality or the message sent. Vietnam is also unique in that most of the English language movies about the country deal with the Vietnam war, unfortunately tending to forget that Vietnam is first a country and a people and second the setting for two of the most horrible wars of the  20th century.  I caution readers to be prepared for some very disturbing and potentially upsetting scenes. If you have further recommendations please feel free to post any film names as a comment below. (Svenska läsare: många av dessa filmer kan lånas på biblioteken hemma och i princip alla kan köpas på webbbutiker. Fördelen med att låna filmerna i Sverige är att dem då är textade på svenska.)

Vietnamese (or foreign co-produced) movies:

Trilogy by Vietnamese director Anh Hung Tran:
The Scent of Green Papaya (Doften av grön papaya. Setting: Vietnam but filmed entirely on a soundstage in France! 1994)
Cyclo (Setting: Saigon, 1995)
Vertical Ray of the Sun (När solen står som högst, 2000, Setting: Hanoi, Halong Bay etc)
Three Seasons (1999, director: Ngoc Hiep Nguyen)
The Buffalo Boy (2004, director Minh Nguyen-Vo)
The White Silk Dress (2007, director Luu Huynh)
Oh, Saigon (2007, director Doan Hoang)
Journey from the Fall (2007, director Ham Tran)

Foreign produced movies set in Vietnam but not dealing directly with the war:
Indochine (1992, starring Catherine Deneuve, filmed partially in Halong Bay)
The Lover (Älskaren, 1992) (setting: Mekong Delta)
The Beautiful Country (2004)

Selection of foreign (non-vietnamese) movies that in some way deal with the Vietnam War:

The Green Berets (1967)
Go Tell The Spartans (1978)
Coming Home (released 1978)
Apocalypse Now (1979)
Deer Hunter (1978)
Platoon (2002)
Born on the Fourth of July (1989)
Hamburger Hill (1987)
Full Metal jacket (1987)
A Bright Shining Lie (1998)
Siege of Firebase Gloria (1989)
Who'll Stop the Rain (1978)
Tigerland (2000)
84C MoPic (1989)
The fog of War (2003)
Path to War (2002)
The Quiet American (Den stillsamme amerikanaren. Setting Saigon 2002)
Hanoi Hilton (1987)
Forrest Gump (1994)
Heaven and Earth  (1993) 
Good Morning, Vietnam (1987) 
Casualties of War (1989) 
We Were Soldiers (2002)

Photo sales at CIWC Christmas Bazaar



I just came back from one month in Vietnam, Thailand, Laos and Cambodia and have a lot of catching up to do. Keep your eyes peeled the next couple of weeks to catch new photos, postings and travel info to these extremely interesting countries. I'll be writing about bamboo rats, grasshoppers and mouse deer, Buddhist caves and dancing apsaras, hidden rocks and shoals on the Mekong, sailing amongst the karst islands of Halong Bay, lingering sorrow in Cambodia and shy smiles in Laos, Laotian coffee versus Vietnamese and tropical fruits like Nipa palm, jackfruit and pink pomelo...

But first some good news: we had great success with selling photos at the Third Annual CIWC Christmas Bazaar: 32 prints sold! That means around 7,000 RMB (about 1000 USD) will be given to the two charities working with the Sichuan earthquake victims. If anyone still wants photos please feel free to continue placing orders. All money will go to the quake charities. Thanks for all the support!

Photo: An afternoon bath in the Mekong, Luang Prabang, Laos

Bibliotekstjänst recension: Kinesiska symboler

Det är viktigt med en bra recension från Bibliotekstjänst då den ligger till grund för de olika bibliotekens inköp. Min första bok Resa till Kina fick en mycket bra recension och biblioteken svarade med att köpa in ovanligt många böcker - 500 st. Vi får se vad det blir för respons med följande recension av Kinesiska symboler:

"Här förklaras vad som ligger bakom många av de symboler och lyckotecken man möter till vardags i Kina. Omdöme: Ingrid Booz Morejohn har arbetat som reseledare i Kina och är numera också bosatt där. Hon har tidigare gett ut Resan [sic] till Kina (2006). Hon har i denna bok om kinesiska symboler valt att fokusera på åtta grundläggande begrepp, såsom lycka, långt liv, frid och belöning. Först ger hon en mer historisk och etymologisk bakgrund till ordet, tecknet och funktionen. Sedan visar hon vilka djur, fenomen, föremål eller t.o.m. maträtter som förknippas med begreppet och alltså fungerar som ett slags överförda symboler. Här kan vi läsa att sallad är symbol för rikedom medan selleri står för framgång i jobbet. Hon lyckas med denna struktur ge mening på ett djupare plan. Ordets uttal och skrivtecknets utseende visar sig vara nyckeln till symbolvärldens uppbyggnad. Både Kinaresenärer och konstintresserade kan här finna mycket matnyttigt. En kort källförteckning avslutar boken som har ett medryckande språk. Färgfoton av människors vardagsliv ger konkretion. - Ulf Lindgren"

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Bokrecension På kinesiskt vis

Här kommer första bokrecension för På kinesiskt vis, recenserad av Kinaportalen (www.kinaportalen.se):

"Ännu en bok om Kina har dykt upp på den svenska marknaden, och det är långt ifrån den första detta år. Denna bok handlar dock, till skillnad från flera av sina föregångare, väldigt lite om politik. Den handlar däremot väldigt mycket om kinesisk kultur, traditioner, normer, kutym. Och den gör det på ett mycket bra sätt - boken är välskriven, med massor av vackra och illustrativa bilder. En perfekt gåva, men också mycket läsvärd för den som skall åka till Kina på längre eller kortare tid. Det är en "introduktion" till Kina som skrivits, och bilderna är en viktig del i denna.
Att vara en en ganska kort och lättfattad introduktion har den förstås gemensamt med Johan Björkstens "I Mittens rike" som kom för 2 år sedan. Men de skiljer sig också lite. Björkstens bok behandlar kinesisk historia, och det tar upp en hel del av boken. "På kinesiskt vis" ger ingen kronologi och författaren skriver inte alls om olika historiska epoker. Däremot handlar den om historisk, traditionella kinesiska företeelser (alltifrån vett o etikett till tedrickning) och det gör den på ett mycket bra sätt.

Helt klart läsvärd för den oinitierade!

Besök gärna författaren vackra hemsida: http://www.ingridboozmorejohn.com/

Thursday, November 6, 2008

CIWC Christmas Bazaar Photo Update

Yesterday I got the photo prints back from the lab and I must say they look great. They are at the framers now being cut for cream-colored or black matts, depending on what color best suits the image. I made 46 prints total (from the 20 images). Ten of the prints have already been sold and I'm hoping that many more people will pre-order to get an idea of which images are the most popular. Of course, it will be much easier to judge which ones are nice when you actually see them at the Bazaar. The prints are large, standard size is A3 (2 times a regular piece of copy paper). In case the image you like best is sold out you can put your name on an order list and  I'll get the picture to you before Christmas. 
Many people have asked me to recommend a good framer here in Chengdu. I will bring a stack of business cards for a framer I recommend: Shilin Muyi near Rainbow Bridge (the big crossing downtown where the furniture department stores are located): 37 Beisi, tel: 028-86614510. Mobile: 13708007421.  There are also good framers at Songxianqiao Antique Market, underneath the highway in the souvenir shops near the Kempinski and on "framer's street", No 99 West Zhonglieci Road (near the Greenland Hotel).  
For more info about the photos see the entry below from November 3rd.

Fat Lady Rocks!


When I was trying to think up an appropriate name for this blog I thought I might call it Pang Taitai. Then I could truly call myself a blobber at Blobspot, excuse me a blogger at Blogspot. But lo and behold Pang Taitai (Fat Lady) was already taken by a well-endowed Hebei woman selling her own brand of spiffy fashion apparel for curvaceous Chinese women. Her website www.pangtaitai.com leans heavily towards the pink end of the palette and her slogan is "I am beautiful, I believe in myself". She seems to have representation all over China and she models all her designs. As anyone around me knows I can be direct to the point of bluntness, so I really like Ms Fang's straight forward and honest business approach, especially in a country obsessed with slimness and youthful beauty. If you want to put in an order for a natty tennis outfit or a rabbit fur collar down jacket her email is pangtaitai@pangtaitai.com - or why not some Power Woman black suede boots with gold details? Tell her Chengdu Pangtaitai sent you.

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Presidents, Princes, Divas and Murderers

When I was a teenager my family moved to Florida. The first week in our new hometown a young black man was taken into the swamps by the local Ku Klux Clan, chained to a tree and beaten to death. This was 1976. Today Barack Obama was elected President of the United States of America. It made me cry. For the past eight years I have been so ashamed to call myself an American that I have cowardly hidden behind my Swedish passport. Today I feel extremely proud to be an American  and proud of the American people that voted for Obama. We are no longer the people of 1976. Let us hope that Mr Obama will keep us proud both of him and ourselves.
©Ingrid Booz Morejohn
The past few weeks have seen various personages pass through Chengdu. Yesterday Prince Andrew, Duke of York, turned up at The Bookworm. He was either very tired (or slightly tipsy from a working lunch) because he fell asleep in front of our very eyes. Luckily this didn't last for more than a few seconds and he went on to lend his support and suggestions to the ex-pat efforts in the local earthquake relief work. 

We opened our front door the other day to discover Yang Erche Namu on our doorstep. She was inspecting the vacant apartment across from ours, possibly thinking of renting it. (Our Korean missionary neighbors have shifted abode). Namu is well-known in Sweden and other European countries as the author (together with Christine Mathieu) of Leaving Mother Lake (Döttrarnas Rike, Bra Böcker Bokförlag), an account of her childhood on the shores of Lugu Lake on the border of Yunnan and Sichuan Province. She belongs to the Mosuo minority and at a young age left her small village to become a mega singing star in China. Her life was featured in National Geographic Magazine and she has since both written books, been a model and starred in movies. Let's hope she's not too hot to handle if she becomes our neighbor. Are Mosuos in the habit of borrowing sugar?

Temple door, Kongpo, Tibet ©Ingrid Booz Morejohn
On the darker side of things an upsetting thing happened the other day on our street. On my way in a taxi to pick up my children I suddenly saw two Tibetans stabbing each other with long knives. The taxi driver jammed on his brakes and for a few horrifying seconds we say them lunge fiercely at each other in a grim dance of death, both wanting to get the best of the other. The driver quickly decided the best thing to do was to flee the scene and we sped off in a hurry, both of us shaken by what we had seen. "Did you see that?" I asked him. "I saw it." he answered. I wish I hadn't.

Monday, November 3, 2008

Photos for sale at CIWC Christmas Bazaar

Ballet class, Shanghai
Corn harvest, Lijiang, Yunnan
Moon Gate, West Slender Lake, Yanghzou, Jiangsu
Red Corridor, Wuhou Temple, Chengdu
Black Dragon Pool, Lijiang, Yunnan
Thailand
Lotus Pond
Tagong, West Sichuan
Women's Feast, Dali, Yunnan
Bamboo, Wuhou Temple, Chengdu
Autumn, Jiuzhaigou, Sichuan
Three Pagodas, Dali, Yunnan
Cormorant fishermen, Li River, Guangxi
Chopsticks
10,000 Buddha Peak, Emei Mountain, Sichuan
Tashilhunpo Monastery, Tibet
Lijiang, Yunnan Province
Lotus seed pod
Tibetan nun, Lhasa
Tibetan monk, Sumtsenling Monastery, Zhongdian

All of the pictures you see here are going to be on sale as prints at the 3rd Annual CIWC Christmas Bazaar at QSI International School (Meizhou Huayuan) on December 6, 2008. All proceeds from the sales of these images will go to two charities that work with earthquake relief projects in the Sichuan area that was devastated by the May 12th, 2008 earthquake : Ecologia and Sichuan Quake Relief. 

Ecologia needs 70,000 RMB to help a village rebuild homes and help families begin a cottage industry where they can earn a living. The remaining money earned will go to Sichuan Quake Relief – working on many projects in the quake area to help relieve the suffering of those living in the area.

More about the charities:
Ecologia http://www.ecologia.org/ 
Sichuan Quake Relief http://sichuan-quake-relief.org/ 

Each print will come mounted with a matt (passpartout) and cost 250 rmb. There will be 20 prints on sale.  If there is a special picture that you like please make a comment here below or send me an email: ingridmorejohn@gmail.com. Additional prints can be ordered and delivered before Christmas. The goal this year for the entire bazaar is to raise 100,000 RMB for charity. Please come and help make this possible!

NOTE! ALL IMAGES ©Ingrid Booz Morejohn